From the Mediterranean to the Red Sea: The Road to Sharm El-Sheikh

Most recently I have found myself residing in Egypt and have had many people ask about my experiences, especially Scuba Diving the Red Sea in Sharm el-Sheikh.  To visit Egypt as a tourist is actually a painless process. Upon arrival I, a US passport holder, was given a thirty days visa for about 25$.  So, if you come to Egypt for the sole purpose of exploring this vast and ancient country, the bureaucracy to visit is simple.  While Alexandria has been my residency for my master’s graduate program, I was able to get down to the Red Sea at the invitation of my friend, Ali, and the company of my dear friend and fellow diver, Ayten.

Jumping on the bus ride to Sharm-el Sheikh from Alexandria sucked ass.

However, it was cheap  (US 20$) and it was no extra charge for me to bring 20 kg of dive gear.  You know me, I have to bring  my gear/wetsuit with me!

While a flight is inexpensive from Alexandria/Cairo to Sharm (75-125$), my visa’s bureaucratic delinquency led me to endure the complete Egyptian Exodus experience: an unending bus ride through the desert.  A short twelve hours later, a military search, and a change in land scape from flat desert to red mountains, I found myself gazing–at a distance– into the internationally renowned waters of the Red Sea.

For nearly five months, since I left Indonesia, I had not immersed myself beneath the waves and it was evident in my demeanor how much I missed being in the water.  I needed to Scuba Dive the Red Sea.

Where you are born influences how you can travel…

Standing in a vacant bus stop and waiting for Ali to arrive, Ayten and I talked about the differences traveling with a US passport versus being an Egyptian woman and traveling.  While we were on the bus and stopped for a security search, the military questioned Ayten  regarding where she was going, on what business, and why—whereas for me, I just pulled out my American passport–the soldier’s eyes bulged–and he left me alone.

Granted, it ought to be noted that the Youth Conference was happening that weekend so security was heightened; but, let me reiterate to my unrestricted travelers—i.e. people with a powerful passport—we are so lucky to be able to travel without needing permissions, filing month’s worth of expensive paperwork, and the looming potential of visa rejection and monetary loss.

My friends in countries such as Egypt, the Philippines, the Dominican Republic, Indonesia and so forth have many restrictions on international travel and it takes immense effort to be able to leave their country.  Sometimes it is even frustrating for people to travel within the confinements of their own country’s borders.

Chatting about the injustices of where one is born, a car pulled up and the familiar face of my friend appeared with a playful dog on his lap.   Ali and his brother Raphael, two talented dive instructors and photographers were my guides for the week.  The brothers have hair which makes me envious and intoxicatingly friendly smiles; some how I keep finding myself surrounded by intriguing company.

Food and Views

We drove a short distance to a stupendous restaurant/ hang out location called El Fanar—this place not only had great food and coffee, but the location cannot be beaten.  The best spot to watch sunset and then romantically gaze at the stars; all the while, my sheesha pipe bubbles as happily as my spirit.

In addition to the view, you can walk right from your seat and into the water, swim about 20 meters and you are on top of a beautiful sea wall with a depth of about 10-15 meters.  Which also made it the perfect spot to break in my new pair of free diving fins.  For the week I stayed in Sharm, I must have come to this spot five times—awesome staff, sweet location, good food, sheesha, a view, and a massage therapist on site.  No wonder I spent my last few hours freediving the house wall.

Scuba Diving the Red Sea in Egypt

The next morning Ali and I were up and headed to the dive shop to board the dive boat.  We began to make our way to the esteemed Ras Mohammed dive site on a 30m or so boat which was quite spacious and comfortable.  Leering over the edge, the azure waters of the Red Sea raced beneath me, my skin exposed–for the first time in months–to the rays of the sun.  We did a short dive briefing and I geared up and stepped

off of the dive platform.  I started my descent and as the meters stacked above me the unbridled colors bursting forth from the reefs surrounded me.  The corals alone reaffirmed why the Red Sea is regarded as some of the world’s most premiere diving.

In the three days of diving, I enjoyed six different dive sites and saw a range of wildlife which included stingrays, eels, crocodile fish, lion fish, schools of barracuda, nudibranchs, groupers, angel fish, grunts, turtles, and the signature fish of the Red Sea: the Jewel Fairy Basslet.  These small red fish appear in bright schools of copious size; playfully they dart back and forth over gardens of soft and vibrant corals.

Conditions to Scuba Diving the Red Sea in Egypt

With visibility of at least 30 meters and calm waters without too much current, the Red Sea is an affordable and astounding location to enjoy. The people who live in the dreamy ocean side city are as laid back and colorful as the water which surrounds them.  A day of diving with 2-3 dives and lunch can run from 60-100$ a day depending on the dive center.

While the Red Sea also is home to larger marine life such as dugongs, whale sharks, and manta rays it would appear that another trip is necessary for me as I saw none.  In addition to planning a trip to Dahab’s Blue Hole on my next diving excursion, I plan to dive the Thistlegrom the next time I have a few days free from school.   Rather than enjoy another bus ride to Sharm I will opt for a flight to my next Egyptian dive excursion.

As a bonus to my bus stories, the return trip featured an inoperable toilet; as the sun set on the desert, Thanksgiving day actually, my legs tightened and I found myself fearfully begging that my truck stop shawarma would not induce indigestions.

If you are interested in learning more about the ocean environment check out some of my academic papers.

Trying to find the right fit for you to Scuba Dive the Red Sea in Egypt

Usually I would recommend a dive company, but I wasn’t really a match with the company I dove with, however, Ali is a marvelous diver and the times we dove together were awesome.

Seeing as a surplus number of dive companies exist in the area you can have your choice of boats.  As I have seen in many dive locations, you often have locals working for foreign business owners.  The local Egyptian divers and crew were all amazing, diving was organized, crew was helpful, divers were safe, dive sites were nice, and lunch was prompt and delicious.

A community of diversity

The world of diving has people from all different backgrounds, personalities and opinions; this variety is one of the most interesting aspects to being a nomad and diving all over the world:  I am able to see so many different methods of operations in the diving community.

A bit about the environmental status when you Scuba Diving the Red Sea in Egypt

The diving was fairly affordable, the boats I was on were clean and mostly well run. The Red Sea’s waters are well worth their international fame.  Unlike what I saw in the Philippines, Bali, and Thailand the amount of trash in the Egyptian water was much less than I expected.  After spending months in Alexandria, which is littered by trash, it was uplifting to see an area of Egypt which took care of its environment.  Let it be noted, areas which rely on tourism money tend to take better care of the environment. Since visitors are attracted to clean and well maintained areas a financial incentive for proper waste management is created.

Accommodation is inexpensive as well, 3 star is about 35$ and 5 star 85$/night. As Egypt is an affordable destination, you can spend less than you would think and get a fairly lavish set up for an inexpensive cost.  In Egypt you can certainly “Ball out for less.”

Gear and maintenance

Lastly, for many divers who travel with their own equipment, like I do, Sharm el- Sheikh offers countless reputable shops which can sell a wide variety of equipment and service your gear.  Fortunately,  SCUBA TIC fixed my leaking regulator and Beyond Limits replaced the battery on my Aqualung dive watch.  So, if you feel like visiting the Red Sea and need gear maintenance or want to enjoy a shopping spree, you will be well situated.

Sharm el-Sheikh is a beautiful part of Egypt where you can unabashedly dawn a bikini or sport a speedo. For me, a bikini is much more comfortable than the conservative dress norms and expectations in other parts of Egypt. The diving is breath taking, and with a wide variety of dive companies, water sport options, restaurants, and attractions.  You can be sure that Sharm el Sheikh is well worth the hype.  Whether you’re finishing a shawarma watching the sunset or exploring the reefs of the Sea, no adventurer’s trip to Egypt is complete without a stop in Sharm el Sheikh.

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